Concealer was designed to provide additional coverage to problem areas of skin by veiling dark marks/ disguising blemishes. Bad MUA ensures concealer does the opposite. This is especially evident with under eye concealer.
We’ve all met someone who appears to have inverted Panda Eyes, looking as if they have been tanning with their shades on.
The tendency to overuse product under the eyes has been fueled by the trend to sculpt facial features via contouring MU techniques. The use of shading (to define and hollow) and highlighting (to draw out receding areas) to create the illusion of balanced features.
Contouring techniques were originally used to provide definition to faces in black and white films and to counteract when intense lighting flattens features. If not used in a studio environment it works best at night. This is not an everyday look. If you must persist then use subtle shades and blend, blend, blend!!! Or risk making the same errors as the beauties below.
When Concealer is abused it cannot be ignored. Which is missing the point!
Some MotherPlucker tips and tricks to ensure you conceal not reveal
1. Start at the very beginning – Invest in a silky makeup primer with a high level of silicone to help lock in moisture and smooth out under eye fine lines. Natural beauties should try Inika Certified Organic Pure Primer £29.50 based on waxes and plant oils.
2 Step by step – Apply under eye concealer over foundation to prevent the concealer being thinned out. Lightly dab to blend.
3. Too Much of a Good Thing – Over zealous application of under eye concealer will cause the product to sit in fine lines and appear unnatural. The thicker the product the grainier it will appear and the harder it will be to distribute evenly. Try a liquid-based product such as M.A.C Select Moisturecover concealer £15.50. Creamy textured and easy to blend into delicate areas.
4. One Product does not fit all! – You are forgiven for assuming that concealers for spots can also be used on the eye area. Two separate shades and consistencies are required. Blemish cover up should be exactly the same shade as your foundation/ skin tone to blend flawlessly. Under eye concealer should be ideally liquid based and NO MORE than 2 shades lighter than skin tone.
Tip: If under eye concealer is too light apply a small amount of foundation on top. Blend with your ring finger (which has the lightest touch)
5. Bright Eyes – The idea of a brightening pen concealer initially makes sense. Great for under-eyes as the texture is slight and brightening hides the darkness. But light reflecting particles actually draw attention to the dark circles not camouflage trouble areas
6. Colour correcting concealers – Blue/Black under eyes can be corrected by blending a small amount of colour to your concealer before application. Peach or yellow is complimentary for paler skins and orange shades work well for olive/ darker complexions. Try NYX CJ-Concealer Jar £6 in shade CJ10 Yellow or CJ13 Orange. The product is cream based but blend-able.
Tip: Use sparingly
Tip: Powders can cake in lines so are more complimentary to younger skins.
8. A light dusting only – Setting concealer with several layers of powder, will result in product clinging to every crevice and smile line. Making the skin appear dry and prematurely aged.
Tip: To set concealer and create a soft focus to the skin try Corn Silk Loose Face Powder £8.16 available from most good chemists.
8. White out – HD (High Definition) white powders provide a smooth finish, does not settle in fine lines and is invisible to the naked eye. However creates another error that often comes to light (excuse the pun) in photographs. Because it contains a high silica content which reflects the lights of a flash showing up white.
Tip: Use sparingly and not as a touch up powder
9. Hydrate & Rest – To help stave off dark under eye circles. Look after your general Wellbeing. Eat clean, Drink water, Exercise and make time to Rest not just Work and Play!
Now go disguise those tired eyes correctly. In time for party season.
Enhance to Enchant! Nx